Singing its praises

article by Ann C. Smith

It used to be that when autumn arrived, the swollen traffic that crowded Angola's streets would finally begin to subside. Now that many lake homes are built to handle cold weather, the population remains more constant throughout the year. One of the more exciting things about this recent development, at least for those who stay year-round, is that they can enjoy the nearby pleasures of dining at Caruso's, an Angola culinary institution, all year long.

The Caruso family has owned and operated the restaurant, located conveniently between Lake James and Crooked Lake on County Rd 200West, since 1976.It was then that founder Joe Caruso was finally able to realize a long-held dream of leaving his job at a Fort Wayne steel mill to become a restaurateur. It was a venture that allowed him to work alongside his wife and, eventually, his children.

Caruso wasn't new to the restaurant business; he met his wife, Barbara, when he was a cook and she was a waitress at the Hobby House restaurant in Fort Wayne. He continued to work occasionally at the Hobby House during down times at the mill, and knew that he preferred a hospitality environment to an industrial one when it came to making a living. When Doc and Londi Caccamo, friends of Joe's, decided to sell their Angola restaurant in 1975, Caruso felt the timing was right to take the plunge. The Caruso family had enjoyed Caccamo's in Angola many times when they camped at nearby Barton Lake, and Joe thought the place had potential. At the beginning, Joe and Barbara operated the restaurant with less than 10persons on staff; today there are 50.

Caruso's started as a family restaurant and still retains that ambience. The theme is established early on in the lobby, where pictures of decades-past first communions and other family milestones line the walls. The Carusos make sure guests know that personal attention is part of the fare.

Over the 27 years of Caruso ownership, three of the couple's four children have taken on significant roles in the restaurant's operation. Daughters Lisa Aldrich and Liat Peters, and son Dan, show guests the same consideration that their parents did, freeing Joe and Barbara to spend part of their year in Florida now. Having worked in the restaurant since their early teens, the three are now full partners in the enterprise: Liat handles Caruso's successful catering business; Lisa is in charge of personnel matters; and Dan takes care of purchasing. All have management responsibilities along with every day operational functions. "Members of the family are here at all times," Aldrich says. "We want to be sure everything is the way it's supposed to be."

When the Caruso's first acquired the business, it was mostly a summer place - just a small restaurant and bar that included an outside covered patio with picnic tables. The Caruso's have made substantial changes to the building, including three major renovations - one of which added a banquet room to the facility that can accommodate 65 people. Now, Caruso's atmosphere is upscale yet casual. The interior is richly colored in burgundy and deep green; awnings and wall sconces provide subtle accents. Classical music filters softly through the air, and tables and booths are decorated with flowers placed in wine bottle vases. The effect is a restful, welcome contrast to the heat of summer, and a cozy retreat when the air turns cooler as well.

Caruso's has adjusted its menu to offer more options than its local competition. Angola has in the past few years attracted many fast food restaurants, including pizza places. In response, Caruso's has expanded to include more classic Italian dishes. "The cuisine is Italian/American," Lisa Aldrich explains. "The menu is diverse, and we're proud of the consistent quality we offer." The sauces at Caruso's are unique, and homemade pastas are offered for catering events, a practice that became more frequent after Aldrich, her sister and parents attended cooking schools in Italy. Caruso's independence means cooks can offer diners versatility not available in chain restaurants. "If someone wants a special-request pasta dish, we can custom-make it for them," Aldrich says.

The menu features classic Italian pasta specialties, seafood, steaks, ribs, chicken, sandwiches, subs, pizza and "Torpedoughs," an original creation of Joe Caruso. This delectable stuffed concoction, a customer favorite, comes in a giant baked dough filled with your choice from an array of different fillings.

The restaurant features a varied and interesting wine list, in addition to a full bar, under the direction of Dan Caruso, who occasionally travels to California to visit wineries for appropriate selections. Though alcoholic drinks are served, they are primarily intended to complement the meal. Caruso's doesn't have a sit-down bar, and in May of this year, the restaurant became a non-smoking establishment, much to the relief of most of the customers, says Aldrich.

A veteran bunch

Caruso's is proud of its employees, and many of them stay for the long haul. "People are happy to see the same faces serve them year after year," Aldrich says. The familiarity helps keep service top-notch.

Caruso's gives back to the community by assisting a number of Angola institutions with various forms of contributions. In 2002, the restaurant was one of only two Indiana establishments nominated by the National Restaurant Association as a Restaurant Neighbor Award finalist. The honor recognized Caruso's for donating and serving food at the Fremont Elementary School Carnival each year for the past decade. At this event, carnival-goers are served Italian sausage sandwiches, brownies and warm fruit pies. The restaurant also caters the annual Angola High School Little Italy fund-raiser /lasagna dinner, which benefits the Angola Marching Hornets Band, for the past 16 years, and offers reduced prices for guests and free dinners for band members at the event.

Catering is available for groups of any size. Caruso's recently provided food for 500 at nearby Fun Spot Park. Catering menus can suit informal to formal occasions. A standard menu is available, but Caruso's can be versatile if a customer wants something unusual.

Joe Caruso keeps a full scrapbook of the milestones and events that mark the restaurant's history. It's clear that Caruso's is fitting testimony to what he believes a family restaurant should provide to a community. Aldrich sums up the benefits of operating a business so closely identified with a family's devoted attention: "Our care for the customers is our quality control," she says proudly. BP